Biodynamic grapes, and the wines they make

I picked up a bottle of Deerfield Ranch Merlot the other day, and I noticed this logo on the wine bottle.

I always thought that biodynamics was just some sort of French organic gardening system similar to biointensive gardening, but there was a lot I did not know.

Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic agriculture

It turns out that Biodynamics, or more specifically biodynamic agriculture, was developed by Rudolf Steiner. Born in 1861, Rudolf Steiner was a philosopher, writer, lecturer, and perhaps the leading occultist of his time. He was the founder of Anthroposophy, which he described as “a path of knowledge, to guide the spiritual in the human being to the spiritual in the universe”.

Using anthroposophy and his extensive agricultural observations, Rudolf Steiner developed and delivered a series of 8 lectures to a group of farmers in 1924. These 8 lectures and 4 additional lessons were combined into a book entitled Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture, which became the foundation for biodynamic agriculture. Shortly after Steiner’s death in 1925, an English version of the book was published under the title of An Agricultural Course.

While the principles of biodynamic agriculture parallel organic farming practices in many ways, biodynamic practices are set apart by the metaphysical aspects of anthroposophy. Steiner’s farming methods are a combination of “biological” practices which are based on well-known organic principles and “dynamic” practices which are intended to influence both the biological and metaphysical needs of the farm.

Composting, crop rotation, companion planting, and green manure are some of the important biological components of biodynamic agriculture. Biodynamic preparations, “teas”, and a planetary farming schedule comprise some of the important “dynamic” biodynamic practices advocated by Steiner.

Biodynamic grape growing in current times

Fast forward about 60 years, and we find a new generation of mostly French winemakers and vintners that are disillusioned with modern agricultural practices and looking for alternatives. Organic farming offers relief from industrially motivated modern agriculture, but biodynamics seems to meet additional needs for some producers.

Fundamental to the biodynamic approach is a sense that each farm or vineyard should be treated as a self-sustaining individual entity or organism. Further biodynamic practices claim to strengthen this sense of place. The idea that each farm or vineyard is unique and has a unique sense of self expression is very similar to the French idea of terroir as it applies to vineyards and wines.

After a small group of vineyards converted to biodynamic methods, and some of their wines and vineyards began to improve. Over time the biodynamic wine began to pick-up speed as critics began to notice wines made from biodynamic grapes. It is difficult to determine how many biodynamic vineyards exist, but one web source places the current number at more than 425.

Is there such a thing as biodynamic wine?

So what about the wine? Is there “biodynamic wine”? The answer is yes. Biodynamic vineyards and biodynamic wines are certified by several organizations. The oldest, Demeter, was originally founded in Europe in 1928. Today Demeter operates in most wine growing countries, and Demeter USA certifies vineyards and wines in the US. Another certifying organization and agricultural consulting firm is Agri-Synthesis, operating in Napa valley.

Even with these and other certifying organizations, when it comes to a wine labeled as biodynamic, it is difficult to say what you are going to get. In December of 2006, Demeter USA posted its certification guidelines for both vineyards and wines. When I recently visited their site, the only way to view the guidelines was to print them out. They are not the most compelling read; however, I can give you the somewhat confusing highlights.

The two levels of biodynamic certification

Similar to the rules of the US National Organic Program, there are two levels of certification: “biodynamic wine” and “wine made from biodynamic grapes”. Biodynamic wines (BD wines) have the most restrictions. Obviously BD wines must be made from 100% biodynamic grapes, but the Demeter standards go even further.

The standards explicitly prohibit “common manipulations such as yeast addition, enzyme addition, acidity adjustment, tannin addition, oaking and chaptalization”. But later the document says that oaking is allowed if you use oak barrels. (Wow, kind of contradictory!) Also, oddly enough, you can add yeast nutrients to BD wine.

Genetically modified organisms or materials derived from genetically modified organisms are expressly forbidden in all BD wines. Other prohibited materials include diammonium phosphate, gelatin, polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (a synthetic material used to clarify wine), blood, and sturgeon swim bladders. Additionally, BD labeled wine must be produced in a single vineyard.

Differences between biodynamic and organic guidelines

Some winemaking techniques not allowed under US organic guidelines are allowed under most BD certifications. For example all BD wines may be fined with bentonite or egg whites. Additionally, sulfur dioxide (SO₂) may be used within certain limits. Most certification groups limit the SO₂ to 100 ppm, the same level as used for wines labeled “made with organic grapes”.

What does all this mean for the wine drinker?

Biodynamic certification and to a certain extent common biodynamic practices are more about the vineyard than they are about winemaking. A BD certification does say that the grapes were organically and mystically produced. It does not, however, guarantee a vegan wine or a sulfur free wine. If you are vegan, you should use other resources to determine if a wine meets your dietary requirements.

All BD labeled wines can contain SO₂, so if you are sensitive to SO₂ you should avoid BD wines. The only wines currently on the market without added SO₂ are labeled “organic wine”.

Now let’s get to the wine drinker part of the question. Do biodynamic grapes make better wine? I have not had the opportunity to do a side-by-side taste test. But I have read of several that went in favor of the BD wines, and if something makes a better wine, I am all for it.

Final thoughts on biodynamics and wines

Does this mean that I think the specific tonics and planetary planting practices of biodynamic agriculture make better wine? My answer is probably not. But I do know from my past days in control theory that an observed process runs better than one that is not observed.

Biodynamic agriculture is more labor intensive and more hands on than commercial agricultural practices. I suspect all the extra time and manpower in the vineyards, and the working with the grapes and the soil, just makes for better grapes (not planting by the phase of the moon). But then again if it makes better wine, who really cares why it works…